Razor cutting is a versatile technique. You can use it to cut your hair shorter, add texture, or soften the ends. If done incorrectly, however, you could damage your hair. Fortunately, razor cutting is easy, and once you get the technique down, it can be really effective.[1]
EditSteps
EditTrimming, Shaping, and Texturing Short Hair
- Start with short hair that is a few inches/centimeters long. This method is great if you already have short hair but want to trim it shorter. It will also help add texture to your hair while reducing volume. It would be easiest if your hair is the same length all around. If your hair is very long, cut it so that it is a few inches/centimeters long.[2]
- This method assumes that you are cutting someone else's hair, but you use it to cut your own hair. You may have to adjust the hand positions so be more comfortable.
- Make sure that your hair is dry, unless it is curly. If your is curly, wavy, or natural (i.e.: African textured), you should dampen it with water first. Cutting curly hair while it is dry can cause frizz and split ends. Dampening it with water will help prevent this from happening.[3]
- Pinch a strand of hair from the top of the head between your fingers. Make a V shape with your index and middle fingers. Pinch a thin of hair between them, with your palm facing outward. Pull the hair up and away from the top of the head until you reach the ends. Hold it at a 90-degree angle to the top of the head.[4]
- The thin strand of hair should be a little narrower than the length of your index finger.
- Keep this first section perpendicular to the front hairline, where the center part would be.
- Cut into the hair with a straight-back razor. Position the razor right below your fingers. Make short, upward cuts towards your fingers. As you cut, the hair will fall away from your fingers.[5]
- Use a straight-back-razor with guard teeth for this. It is different from a razor comb in that the teeth are made from metal and are much shorter.
- Continue to work in horizontal rows towards the back of the crown. Keep pinching and cutting strands of hair all along the front hairline, spanning from temple-to-temple. Once you finish cutting the hair along the hairline, create another row just behind the first one. Continue working your way towards the back of the crown, right where the head starts to curve downward.
- Angle your fingers to cut the hair shorter in the back. Pinch a strand of hair on the back-center of the head between your index and middle fingers. Angle your fingers so that the hair on the top edge of the strand touches the base of your fingers, and the hair on the bottom edge sticks out between your fingertips. Trim away the hair under your fingers with the razor.[6]
- The angle depends on how short you want the back and sides to be. Try to match the angle to the curve of the client's head, however.
- Keep your palm facing outward, and the top of your hand facing the client's head.
- Work your way in vertical rows down the back of the client's head, from top to bottom.
- Angle your fingers to cut and blend the hair on the sides. Pinch strands of hair between your index and middle fingers like before. Angle your fingers so that the hair on the top of the strand matches up with the hair on the top of the head. Work your way along the side of the head towards the back of the head.[7]
- Always trim the hair beneath your fingers.
- Make sure that the hair on the sides tapers towards the hair on the back. Trim away any excess length, if needed.
- Trim and texture the bangs, if desired. Comb the hair forward with a soft, bristle brush. Pinch and twist thin sections of hair, then run your razor comb lightly along the strands. This will shorten them while giving them a soft, feathered texture.[8]
- Add texture by lightly running your razor comb over the hair. Use a regular comb to brush the client's hair in the direction they will normally wear it. Use your straight-back razor comb to lightly brush the hair down. Be careful not to dig too deep into the hair, or you will cut too much off.[9]
- Start with the top of the head, then work your way down the sides and back.
- Contour the hair along the ears, nape, and sideburns, if needed. If the client's hair is cut short enough that you can see the entire ear, you will need to contour it. Use your fingertips to pinch and pull away thin strands of hair, then lightly trim them with a razor. Work your way along the hairline until the hair is even.[10]
- When you reach the ears, fold them down so that you can see the hairline behind them.
- Brush and style the hair. Use a soft brush to dust off any short strands of hair along the client's neck and shoulders.
EditTrimming and Shaping Pixies and Undercuts
- Start a pixie or an undercut. This method is also suitable for other hairstyles that have a similar length and style (longer on top and shorter on the sides). It is ideal for trimming your haircut while maintaining the shape and style. It can save you a costly visit to the stylist.
- Dampen your hair if it is curly. While razor cutting should be typically done on dry hair, just the opposite is true for curly, wavy, and natural (African) textured hair. Cutting this type of hair while it is dry and damage it. Dampening it with water first will help prevent split ends and frizz.[11]
- If your hair is straight, you should leave it dry.
- Get a razor comb that has both long and short teeth. Most razor combs will only have one set of teeth. You need to get a razor comb that has long teeth on one edge, and short teeth on the other. This will give you better control of how much hair you cut off. The comb can have straight teeth or curved/concave teeth.[12]
- If the comb has curved and concave teeth, the curved side will cut less hair while the concave side will cut more hair.[13]
- Section off the hair on top of your head. This is only necessary if you are trimming an undercut or a pixie that is shorter on the sides/back and longer on top. Use the handle of a rat-tail comb to separate the long (top) hair from the short (side and back) hair. Comb the short hair down and secure the long hair on the top of your head with hair clips.[14]
- For most people, this top section spans the width of the forehead.
- Run the comb down the sides and back using short, downward strokes. Run the comb through your hair, just like you would when brushing it. Give it a gentle, downward flick at the end of each stroke. Use the long/curved edge if you need to trim off less hair, and the short/concave if you need to trim off more hair.
- Which edge you use depends on how long your hair is to begin with, and how short you want it to be at the end. You will most likely have to alternate between the two edges.
- Trim the hair around your ears with small scissors. Pixies and undercuts are neatly trimmed around the ears. Because of how small this area is, the best way to get the cleanest line is to trim the hair by hand with small hairdressing scissors. Use small snips to cut away any long strands and to clean up the lines.[15]
- Depending on your haircut, you may also have to do this along the hairline, temples, and nape.
- Comb the hair downward using a fine-toothed comb first so that it is nice and straight.
- Remove the clips and trim the long hair on top of your head, if needed. The great thing about pixies and undercuts is that there is no set or specific length for the hair on the top of your head; it just needs to be longer than the hair on the sides and back of your hair. You can leave this hair long if it suits your style, or you can also trim it down further.[16]
- Click here for more detailed information on trimming the hair on the top of your head.
- Comb and style your hair. If you need to, take a shower and change into a set of fresh clothes. This will ensure that you have no annoying little bits of cut hair pricking your skin.
EditTips
- Drape a hairdressing cape or a towel around your shoulders while cutting your hair. This will keep those tiny bits of hair from sticking to your clothes.
- Cut your hair longer than you think you want it. Remember, you can always cut it shorter, but you’ll have to wait for it to grow back longer!
- If you are cutting your own hair, consider getting a three-way mirror. This way, you won’t have to turn your back to the mirror and hold another mirror up in front of your face.
- Use a fresh blade each time your razor cut your hair. If you don't use a fresh blade, it won't be sharp enough. This can lead to split ends.[17]
- Curly hair is difficult to razor cut. To reduce frizz and split ends, make sure that you cut with the curl, not against it.
- Cutting curly hair may still lead to frizz, even if you cut with the curl. You can get it under control with styling and smoothing creams, however.
EditWarnings
- Razor cutting may damage curly hair, especially if it is delicate, like African, ethnic, or natural hair.
- Do not razor cut curly hair (including African, natural, and ethnic) while it is dry, or you will get split ends.[18]
EditThings You'll Need
EditTrimming, Shaping, and Texturing Short Hair
- Straight-back razor
- Fine-toothed comb
- Soft, bristle brush
- Spray bottle (for dampening curly hair)
EditTrimming and Shaping Pixies and Undercuts
- Razor comb with short and long teeth
- Hair clips
- Fine-toothed comb
- Spray bottle (for dampening curly hair)
EditSources and Citations
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